Chocolate Itacaré

Chocolate Itacaré Factory

So one morning I am awoken early to be taken on a journey a few hours out of Ilhéus to a chocolate farm. After a half an hour journey towards Itabuna, we take a left onto a red sand road and drive through the Atlantic Rainforest for an hour. The drive was amazing, surrounded on both sides of rolling hills and high trees, with the warm, tropical smell flying in through the windows.

Coccy's on the table

After a long and bumpy journey through the thick, green forest, we arrive at a clearing and see a red, green and white painted building, reminding me of something from Hansel and Gretel. We drive through the large gates, around the pond, and park alongside the building.

After entering the large red doors at the front, we notice a display or various different chocolates, wrapped in gold, silver, pink or red foil. Some are designed in the shape of huge Easter eggs, others as football shoes, and some as tiny hearts, all to display what the Chocolate Factory has to offer.

The cacau in the farm

We head up the stairs and reach an office with a balcony. I step out onto the balcony and am presented with an amazing view of the farm and rainforest below, with the hundreds of beautiful shades of green from the trees and bushes rolling into the distance, filling my nose with a wonderful hot, tropical smell.  Back in the office, there is a small table with a tray of various milk and dark chocolate. We asked to try them and I happily oblige, they taste delicious!

After a brief induction about the factory and its history, I am taken on a walk around the building to see the 'cacau' (cocoa) growing on the trees. I pick one, the guide cuts it open with a knife, and inside the yellow shell is a collection of beans covered in a white gel. I am told to taste the coating, as he hands me one of the small, white covered beans. I pop it dubiously into my mouth. Delicious! The white creamy coating has a slightly sour but sweet taste. The bean however is extremely bitter when I bite into it! It needs to be fermented, dried, and roasted before it is edible.

The opened cacau fruit

In the factory, the well organized process is like clockwork. The fruit pickers collect the cacau from the trees and take them to the factory. They are then cut open, where the insides are removed from its shell and put into a separate box. A machine then separates the white cream from the cocoa beans. The cream is then used to make a frozen fruit juice, where the beans are then dried and ground to produce chocolate. Once the chocolate reaches its final stage, the staff then pour the liquid chocolate into various moulds and put them in the fridge. At the time of my visit, it was two weeks before Easter, so the factory was full of people making lots of various sized eggs. At the end of the factory tour, I am taken to a large room where the final products are kept. It was like being in Charlie and the Chocolate’s Factory, wall to wall full of shelves of brightly colored and enticing looking chocolate.

The roasted cocoa bean before producing cocoa mass

After my tour, I have a filling, home-made meal in the on-site house, then take a slow walk around the grounds of the farm . I feel very short among the tall, thick trees full of hanging cacau and cupuacu (another local, Brazilian fruit). The rainforest sounds like an orchestra, I stop in my tracks and hear the high pitched noise of thousands of crickets, many different calls of various, colourful birds and the low rumble of the frogs in the distance. I begin to get eaten alive by the mosquitoes, so quickly head back up to the house, just in time to see the sun set over the rainforest, a truly magical sight.

Later on, I am taken to watch a professional marketing video that has been made for the Chocolate Itacaré Factory. I also watch a news report which congratulates Diva and her work colleagues on the success of the company.

The chocolate was incredible, and perhaps tasted even better knowing that it had been made fresh on the site without any added preservatives or E numbers. The produce is delivered to many major cities around Brazil including Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, as well as locally in Ilhéus. 

Molten Chocolate being moulded

The journey and day spent at the factory was incredible. It’s great to see that people are making the most of their local resources here in Brazil. Coming from the Britain where 50% of our food is imported, it’s good to see that Brazil uses locally sourced, fresh, organic produce and distribute it to the rest of the country. It is an inspiration for many countries, not just the UK.

Diva, and the staff I met made me feel so  welcome, and the things I saw and experienced I will never forget. Chocolate Itacaré should be a stopping point for any tourist visiting the city of Ilhéus. 

Just a small selection of their final products

Brazilian Bugs

Fact is that when you come to Brazil, you will see bugs, and not just any bugs -big, bright and beasty bugs. So here are some tips for you to ponder on before you arrive in Brazil.

Rule #1-When you enter the room what do you do? Turn the light on. Yes 'Stop. Light. Look' is my new rule. I for example run into the dark room to quickly grab my camera-CRUNCH-under my foot and between my toes.-Scream, run for the light, look...and its gone. Aka: no sleep for you until you find it. Do a thorough scan when you enter.

Brazil Wandering Spider. (I haven't actually seen one I thought I'd just add it for kicks)


Rule #2-Havaiana Flip Flops. Every one wears them, I assumed it was just a trend. Occasionally I see a couple arguing where the lady proceeds to take off her flip flop and slap him-however, they have a another use. You see Havaianas are not only comfortable but tough. You whack a cockroach with any old flip flop and it takes you a good five whacks before it's dead. one solid whip with a Havaiana and you got him. Average cost 30 Reals/£10 from most stores in every single town in Brazil.

Rule #3-Don't leave clothes crumpled on the floor.

Bugs like dark warm places. I have a lovely memory of picking up my laundry and a spider (bright and furry) crawls out. Yummy. Hang everything!

Rule #4-Check all items before using.

I reach out the shower to grab a towel, wrap it round and step out. I look in the mirror and hanging onto the back is a small gecko. Completely harmless and actually cute in its small size but still enough to make you scream for the heavens. Shake/Check everything.

...I like the fact that as I'm writing this I squished a cockroach... 

Rule #5-Be prepared for rain. 

Like us, not all bugs like the rain, and like us, they want to get inside. If you can bare the heat, shut your windows and doors. Some will get in anyway but it will help. 

After the rain

Rule #6-OFF. OFF is an insect repellent, it's not too pricey and works pretty well. It's the best I have found so far that doesn't make your eyes water and sting your nose. Costs about 15reals/£5 per bottle. Use as often as you can remember!

Rule #7-Keep flip flops next to your bed. 

Be prepared for midnight attacks! You don't want to be caught out. 

Rule #8-Keep your eyes peeled at all times. 

You never know when things might creep up on you...

Rule #9-Keep Covered

Mosquitoes are a bitch, you can never get rid of them. Keep covered at night with a mosquito net or a thin sheet. In hostels sleep in the bed next to the fan or air con if you can, as mosquitoes will have a harder time landing.

Full belly after din dins

Rule #10 -Clean up your carcass!
It's late, I see something shiny-it's a roach. I jump up-WHACK-and fall asleep. I wake up and slowly open my eyes to see the cockroaches head gliding slowly across the floor. No, I wasn't dreaming... I jump up to get a closer look with a flip flop,when I notice an army of ants in perfect formation. I follow the long single file to the roach's remains and see they have left only the shell and a leg, the rest has been carried off for dinner. 

No Pare le Fiesta!

Brazilians sure no how to party. A chance for friends, family, neighbours and strangers to get together, drink, eat and of course, dance. It feels like every other week I am going to a party to celebrate one thing or another.

I can't talk about Brazilian parties without mentioning the two most important events of Brazil; New Years Eve and Carnaval. 

I'll start with New Years Eve in Rio de Janerio. I arrived 3 days before the event, in time to do some serious sightseeing. Be aware that everyone else thought the same as me. This resulted in queuing for a total of nearly 4 hours to get the top of sugar loaf and back in the 40ºC heat... 

The city was buzzing with everyone arriving and preparing for the big event. I had already brought a white dress to wear for the occasion. The night arrived and so did the other 2 and a half million people.

At 10pm me and a group of friends arrived at the heavily packed Copacobana beach. We danced for hours to the incessant drums and Brazilians beats whilst taking advantage of the street vendors selling capirinhas :)

The 10 minute firework display was incredible. The best display I have ever seen in my life. After, we head to the shore to jump the waves and party until the sun comes up. Incredible. 

Carnaval however, is another kettle of fish. First and foremost, it is not a one night affair, its a 6 night fiasco. Thus be prepared to be tired for a week, maybe even delirious by the end of it. 

In the Camarote

Also, you are not limitied to white attire, this is the all colourful, all crazy party!

I must also add that there is a huge difference in Carnavals across the country, held in the three biggest cities; Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Salvador. I went to Salvador. 

Carnaval in Rio is more of a parade, with dancers and musicians performing down the long streets, lined with seats for spectators to sit and watch the sequins and feathers go by. 

Trio Elctrico

Salvador is not quite so glamorous... Nearly 3 million people pile into the streets to drink, dance, and sing and be a part of the parade itself. Here famous Brazilian artists perform  on a 'trio eletrico'- a large truck transformed into a brightly lit, moving stage. 

As part of my hotel package, I had tickets each night to a 'Camarote'- a stage that over looks the street, artists and thousands of people. With an open bar and constant food, I partied the each night away until the early hours, dancing like a maniac and singing at the top of my voice. Ocassionally running down into the streets to join the masses and follow the trios along their route. 

The atmosphere I cannot describe. Colourful, cramped and crazy is a start. My ears were ringing for a week, my feet ached every day, my liver also moaned a little. However, Carnaval is without a doubt one of the greatest experiences of my life so far.  

I unfortunately must add that tourists are easily spotted, and with a few too many capirinha's in me, I was not as careful as I should have been, which resulted in the loss of my camera-including all Carnaval and New Years photos and videos. A major loss that I am still mourning. Yet I feel that despite this, I have the most important memories in my mind that no one can steal from me! 

Thankfully my friends also had cameras so I have a few to show... Please don't miss this event, and please get camera insurance!

Copacobana, New Years Day

Paradise in Indaia Eco Village

Every Sunday I have been going to one of the many different beaches around Ilhéus. My favourite day of the week, where I can bake in the sun with an ice cold beer and eat seafood. Usually, many of the beaches in Brazil can take the form of a catwalk, with many men and women strolling along the waters edge in the tiniest of bikinis and speedos. Looking like Casper the Ghost, I prefer to sit and try to top up my tan...

I was lucky enough to be taken on a little trip just outside of Ilhéus city centre on Sunday.
After a half hour we arrived at Indaia EcoVillage, a little beach resort located in the South of Ilhéus.

It is a popular place for both Brazilians and foreign tourists to spend their holidays relaxing or to just to spend the day there making the most of the pool and beach side facilities. Whilst there I saw both Japanese and German families staying for their holidays.

Here there is a farm with chickens, geese, hens and even parrots. As well as a garden with vegetables and herbs.

Indaia Eco Village was so peaceful. The beach was enormous, stretching for miles in both directions with not another person, aside from myself, to be seen. Most of the people seemed to prefer the pool and deckchairs. I however loved the perfect soft, white sand lined with palm trees as far as the eye could see next to perfect turquoise waters. Paradise.


After a delicious lunch in the wonderfully decorated restaurant, I laid on the sun lounger with the sea hushing me into a peaceful sleep.

Later, a dip in the sea was in order. It was the warmest sea I think I have ever swam in. After 20 metres there are strong rip currents that can pull you out. I stayed shallow and jumped some of the huge waves. A great place for surfing thats for sure!

Whilst walking out of the sea I noticed some people playing music and singing. Me and my friend decided to join in. My friend Rebecca sang some popular Brazilian songs, whilst the others played the tamborine, guitar and bongo. Not knowing many of the songs and being a horrible singer, I happily danced along to the sultry Brazilian sounds.

Paradise!

To top it off I spent the rest of the day in a hammock next to the beach, watching the sunset and reading my book. The brazilian sunsets are enough to make me stay here forever...

A trip to Indaia Eco Village is essential if you are in Bahia. Perhaps one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to, and a day I will never forget for the rest of my life.











                                                      A few pictures of the resort

The Restaurant

River next to the farm

Helpful Brazilians

I think for most people that come not only to Ilhéus but anywhere in Brazil, they will notice how extremely generous the Brazilians are. 

After arriving in Ilhéus after a 26 hour coach journey from Rio, I was met by Maria and Winston who opened their arms and let me into their house and family. Since then they have treated me like their own daughter and showed me the wonderful sites of the city. 

São Sebastian Cathedral

Colourful houses around the town

I have seen an array of beautiful beaches, big and small. I have seen weird and wonderful architecture fom São Sebastian Cathedral to the colourful shanty towns north of the city centre. I have had my breath taken away by the mesmorizing sunsets along the Sapetinga neighbourhood, but for me the best thing is the people. 

Back Door Beach, Ilhéus

Being a gringo and failing to speak decent Portuguese, I was very worried at how difficult life would be . However, the people here will come up to you and ask you if you need help. They will help show you the direction if you need the way, they will offer you to go in front of them at the supermarket if you have a smaller amount of things. Even the other day when I was sat alone at a bar, the woman- also alone- next to me, offered me to join her at her table and share her food. Who would have thought! 

Coming from England- in particular London- it is very rare for a stranger to approach you on the street. Here however, everyone greets you with a "Bom Dia" or "Boa Tarde" and a kiss on each cheek. 

Although their customs can seem strange to me at times, this is a custom I wish England would take up. Such a wonderful way to make you feel welcome and smile when you least expect it. The Brazilians can make you feel right at home, even if home is 5'000 miles away. 

My first sunset, Sapetinga

Sweaty Betty

I think the first thing I noticed when I arrived here 2 months ago in Ilhéus was the heat. I'd spent time in Chile and also Rio so had become accustomed to the climate change however, travelling the 600 miles north from Rio to Ilhéus I felt like Id landed on the equator.

Since my arrival I have hastily bought shorts, linen trousers and as many baggy tops as possible to cool me down. What has stunned me, is the fact that both women and men like to wear jeans here? Mental.
Every day the temperature is between 30-40ºC. Even at the beach in my bikini I feel like Im wearing too much. The sea is like a warm bath, the taps never get cold, and at night its still in the high 20's.

I remember one particular windy night sitting outside with the girls that I am staying with. One of them, 10 years old, runs inside to get herself a blanket. I laughed when I saw this. 'What's funny?' she asked. I explained to her that it was the middle of January, I was sat outside at night in 25º heat in just a pair of shorts and a T-shirt. If my friends at home in the cold, snowy England could only see me now. And here is Marissa feeling cold in 25º! If only she could come to England and see what cold really is!

Aparently their Winter is the same temperature as our Summer... not fair. Oh to live in a place where the sun appears every day :)

January, Brazil

January, England

British Gringo

For those of you who don´t know, a ´Gringo´is a slang word used by Brazilians to address tourists or foreigner. I was first called the word on my flight from Santiago to Rio. Although at first I took a little offence, the Brazilian lady I was talking to explained its casual meaning.

Since then I have been trying very hard to fit in and not stand out like a sore thumb. Very difficult I might add. Aside from the fact that I am very white, I have coloured eyes which is quite a rareity here in Brazil.
There have been times when I have been casually browsing the super market for example, when I notice a man that has stopped and is staring at me. 'Gringo' he must think.. Even after two months here I still notice this from time to time.

I also have my typical British traits that alone make me look ´strange´. Sitting at the dinner table on my first week here, I found the children would laugh at the fact that I ate with my knife and fork in the opposite hands. I think Europe and most of the world eat with their knife in the right-Brazilians-nope, they like to do things different! I also caused a great deal of laughter when they saw me put milk in my tea. I wish I photographed their faces... "Milk with water??" Even today they still stare in wonder when I do this.

Meal times are very different too;

• Breakfast is standard; cereal, fresh bread, cheeses, ham, fruits etc.

• Lunch; This is their main meal of the day. Very odd! I am used to a small lunch, usually on the go but here they all sit down to a large buffet. Everyday the same foods-beans, rice, beef and or chicken and salad. Followed by more fruit. 

• Dinner; More bread, more cheese, more ham, more fruit!

I think this is actually the healthiest I´ve eaten in a long time. Ive never eaten so many bananas in my life!

So all in all being a gringo, I am getting used to being looked at for being 'strange'.

Having said that, I am loving trying all the new foods, listening to their music and experiencing their customs. I could definately get used to this way of life...maybe I wont end up a gringo after all!